
by Johnny Bull
January 13th, 2009
Years ago in Rome for the first time, my girlfriend and I had a simply fantastic meal in a bistro. After what seemed like a hundred courses of a meal that just sort of arrived without any fiddly boring ordering – bread sticks and rolls, pastas, steaks, mozarellas, roasted vegetables, fruit, sorbets, a carnival of coloured Sambuccas on a tray, a pudding trolley that took three waiters to goad into motion – I really wanted to show how happy I was without the usual patting of my stomach and a bleary shouting of, “Fantastico, er, bella…” since I had very little Italian (still do, I’m a dreadful linguist) I had the bright idea of fishing out my phrase book so I could articulate my joy as best I could. As the busy waiter bore down on our table with the bill and my credit card in his hand, I opened the book and found myself on the Hospitals section. There was no time to refine the search much, all I could do was to find a nugget of gratitude that I could use to communicate my profound joy. With what seemed like miraculous speed I fell on the pathetic and lacklustre, “Thank you, I feel much better.” I said this in such an excited and determined way that the waiters and most of the clientele burst into spontaneous applause. High fives all round. More sambuccas and tables full of animated, pointing, smiling people…
It was only when we were outside that my companion (that’s what critics say, isn’t it?) asked what I’d said to arouse such hilarity. And with a shudder I looked again at the page and realised that I might have loudly congratulated the waiter on curing my wife’s flatulence.
Oh well, it’s been over twenty years; I suppose I could pop in there again for a quick bite.
The point I’m making is this: they say the English don’t complain, they just seethe inside at bad service then go home and take it out on the furniture or whatever. It seems the phrase book is making up for all those lost opportunities.
I no longer have the wretched little lexicon of grumbles, but I remember finding it utterly useless unless you did want to moan, endlessly: “My wife smells of creosote, what are you going to do about it?” There seemed also, to be about a hundred various requests for police intervention. Jesus, what sort of holidays do most British people have? And I’m not talking about the dreary drunk tattooed chain-smoking rottweilers who shout the bleedin odds in warm parts of the European landmass. What about a Praise Book for the people who are quiet and polite, but nevertheless hell-bent on pleaure? And who want to communicate to their hosts their enjoyment of the wine, the walks, the beautiful, unbelivable weather.
Just a thought.
I might take it to Mrs Grumpy on Dragons’ Den…
No, don’t; just when I was starting to feel much better.
Love this story. Rome is such fun that it somehow generates experiences like the one you’ve recounted. Did you eat deep fried artichokes?(“Jewish-style”?) Remember eating incredibly well and cheaply in great fun local restaurants in an area called Trastevere (?). Couldn’t leave the subject of Rome, though, without noting that it was the site of the world’s worst sporting disaster – at the Circus Maximus. It’s all in “A Disastrous History of the World.”
Posted by Disaster Historian • 20 January 2009, 08:47
Must catch up on the gory that was Rome in more detail! I was amazed to discover that he Colloseum was an easy match for Old Trafford.
Imagine looking up at 60,000 thumbs all pointing down!
Posted by Johnny Bull • 20 January 2009, 11:21
The Circus Maximus allegedly held 300,000!!!
That’s bigger than the Maracana – into which a record 200,000 flooded for the 1950 World Cup Final – never mind Old Trafford. Also dwarfs the current world’s biggest – the Rungrado May Day Stadium in fun-filled Pyongyang.
Posted by Disaster Historian • 20 January 2009, 16:18
Do you remember that scene in Life Of Brian, when Michael Palin as the half-wit Roman snack vendor? His pitch being, I think, “Anyone for otters’ noses?”. I wonder what the hot dog equivalent was. Actually, no I don’t; I hate to think…
Posted by Johnny Bull • 21 January 2009, 10:41
All Italy has been tainted for me by Gomorra, a book I could not put down a few year’s ago but which is now a film. Stay with the old glories of Rome and stick with it, it’s less alarming!. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0929425/
Posted by leaveTHpastbehind • 2 April 2009, 23:19
I got a night train a couple of years ago from Naples to Trieste, and got into a long conversation with a young Asian whose family were Ugandan exiles and had worked in Rome for several years and was on his way home to celebrate his Mum's birthday in Rimini. He went into horrifying detail about being robbed on a train by a couple who drugged him and left him without even his shoes.
I felt more than slightly paranoid, especially after having a pizza stolen in Naples, no big deal I know, but I was eating it at the time…
He definitely would have agreed with you; he got off at Bologna still stirred up by the memory, this chatty, very friendly and intelligent dude, who, when I tried to reassure him that the whole country wouldn’t be like that, he said, “But they are all robbers, all of them…”
I wish he could have come to Trieste. I think he would have relented.
Posted by chuck loyola • 2 April 2009, 23:59
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French English newspaper for Pézenas and the Herault region; le journal local des délocalisés

Resident Speak the Culture artist Johnny Bull
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